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It feels like it is working. A swipe of lip balm, a cool tingle, a hint of mint, and an hour later your lips feel dry again. So on goes another layer.
But dermatologists have a different explanation for that familiar cycle. According to leading dermatologists, the burning, stinging, or tingling sensation people often associate with an effective lip balm can actually be a sign of irritation. And some surprisingly familiar ingredients may prevent already-chapped lips from healing.
With the heating turned up and cold winds returning, it's worth checking what is actually inside that little tube in your coat pocket.
Why that cooling sensation can be misleading
There is something satisfying about a minty lip balm, especially when your lips feel sore and tight. The cooling effect provides an immediate sensation of relief.
But that feeling doesn't necessarily mean your lips are getting the moisture they need.
Dermatologist Dr. Sam Awan, speaking in an article published by U.S. Dermatology Partners, explains that ingredients such as peppermint oil, camphor, and menthol can cause irritation.
Another dermatologist, Dr. Heather Rogers, notes that some products may feel soothing temporarily while contributing to enough dryness and irritation that people keep reaching for another application.
That doesn't mean everyone will react badly to these ingredients. But if your lips are already cracked, dermatologists recommend avoiding products that sting or tingle.
The ingredients worth checking on your lip balm
Before buying another lip balm, turn over the packaging and read the ingredient list.
You must avoid several ingredients while your lips are chapped, including:
- Menthol, camphor and eucalyptus
- Mint, peppermint, cinnamon and citrus flavorings
- Added fragrance and lanolin
- Salicylic acid, phenol and propyl gallate
- Certain sunscreen filters, including oxybenzone and octinoxate
Lanolin, an ingredient derived from sheep's wool, can also cause allergic reactions in some people. The American Contact Dermatitis Society named it its 2023 Allergen of the Year.
These ingredients aren't necessarily harmful to everyone. The warning specifically concerns their potential to irritate already dry or damaged.
What dermatologists recommend instead
The good news is that healing chapped lips doesn't require an expensive collection of beauty products.
Look for simple, fragrance-free products containing ingredients such as petrolatum, castor seed oil, ceramides, dimethicone, mineral oil, or shea butter.
For particularly dry or cracked lips, plain white petroleum jelly is another option.
Unlike lighter waxes or oils, a thick ointment helps seal in moisture for longer. Apply a non-irritating balm throughout the day and before bed.
When heading outdoors, choose lip protection with SPF 30 or higher, even during winter. Reapply the lip balm every two hours while outside.
One everyday habit could be making things worse
When your lips feel dry, licking them seems like the quickest way to add moisture.
Unfortunately, it does the opposite. Saliva evaporates quickly, leaving lips even drier. Digestive enzymes in saliva can also irritate sensitive skin.
Biting loose skin or picking at flakes can delay healing too.
Dermatologists recommend using a gentle lip balm instead of licking your lips, drinking enough water, and considering a bedroom humidifier when indoor air is particularly dry.
When cracked lips need more than lip balm
Most ordinary chapped lips should improve with gentle care within two to three weeks.
If yours don't, consult a dermatologist. Persistent cracking, pain, itching, or crusting around the mouth may indicate an allergy, infection, or another condition requiring treatment.
And if your favorite lip balm consistently makes your lips tingle, there's a simple place to start: stop using it. Your lips don't need to feel cold, minty, or tingly to be getting the protection they need.