Most of us chose an eyeliner color years ago and never really questioned it: black. But if the same black pencil you loved at 30 suddenly seems to make your eyes look smaller, or your makeup feel heavier, there is a surprisingly easy alternative. Makeup artists working with mature eyes increasingly recommend softer colors, and one shade currently getting attention in Spanish beauty media is deep burgundy.
Makeup artist María Sánchez Marín recommends using a burgundy tone on the waterline after 50 or 60, choosing one that is deeper than the eyeshadow around it. Her reasoning is that it creates definition without the hard contrast of black. Other makeup artists give similar advice about switching from black to softer brown and plum shades as the eye area changes with age.
Why burgundy can work better than black
There is nothing inherently wrong with black eyeliner, and if you like how it looks, there is no reason to stop wearing it. The difference is contrast. A solid black line around the eye is visually strong, and on some eye shapes it can make the eye appear smaller or draw more attention to hooding and changes in the eyelid.
Celebrity makeup artists warn that thick black liner can “close up” mature eyes, recommending softer dark-brown shades and tightlining instead. Experts advise women over 50 against running black pencil across the entire lower waterline because it can visually close up the eye.
Burgundy sits somewhere between brown, plum and red. It still gives the lashes definition, but the result is usually less stark. Reputed beauty editors have also found burgundy softer than black, while makeup artists note that warm burgundy shades are particularly flattering on green and blue eyes. They can also add warmth and contrast to brown or hazel eyes.
Which burgundy should you choose?
You do not need an expensive pencil. Look for wine, burgundy, berry, aubergine, or deep plum rather than a bright red. Matte and satin finishes are usually the easiest options for everyday wear.
Availability varies by country. L'Oréal Paris currently sells its Haute Couleur Crayon Khol in Bordeaux Cashmere in the Netherlands and Belgium, while Boots lists Maybelline burgundy pencil options in the UK. In the US, Revlon currently offers its ColorStay Eyeliner in Cherry, and L'Oréal lists a Burgundy version of its Infallible Pro-Last pencil. Check the individual package before using any pencil specifically on the waterline, since not every eyeliner is designed for inner-rim application.
The 30-second version
For the easiest test, swap only one step in your existing routine. Add burgundy to the outer lower waterline or just beneath the lashes, softly smudge a little color into the outer corner, curl your lashes, and finish with one coat of mascara.
That is it. You don't need a new palette or a complicated technique — just a small change of color that can give the eyes definition without the hard edge of a full black line.
Applying it without making the eye look heavy
Start small. Rather than drawing a thick line around the entire eye, try a creamy burgundy pencil on the outer half of the lower waterline or lash line. Keep the pressure light and stop if the pencil drags.
For the upper eye, you can press the same color between the lashes or gently smudge it along the lash line. This is especially useful on hooded or crepey lids because you are not trying to draw a perfectly straight line across moving skin. Makeup artists who recommend tightlining for women over 50 advise using a soft, thin pencil and using a magnifying mirror while applying it.
There is one important caveat. Cosmetics inside the lash line can migrate into the tear film more readily than makeup applied outside it. If you have dry, sensitive, or easily irritated eyes, or wear contact lenses, applying the color just beneath the lashes may be more comfortable. Always use a clean product designed for the eye area, never share pencils, and skip eye makeup during an infection or active irritation.