The jumper still looked new last week. Now there are small fuzzy balls on the elbows, under the arms and along the sides where the arms brush against the body. Pilling is so common that it's easy to blame the wool itself, especially when a jumper starts looking worn after just a few outings. But those little balls don't necessarily mean you've bought a poor-quality garment. And if you reach for the fabric softener every time you do the laundry, one small change to your washing routine might be worth making.
Why wool jumpers pill in the same places
Pilling happens when loose fibres work their way out of the yarn and tangle together into little balls. According to the Woolmark Company, rubbing during wear is the main reason it happens.
That explains why you tend to see pilling in familiar spots: around the elbows, under the arms, along the sleeves and across the sides of the jumper. These areas experience repeated contact as you move. Sitting at a desk, carrying a bag or wearing a seat belt can add more friction, as can rubbing against furniture.
It doesn't necessarily mean your jumper is badly made or that you bought the wrong kind of wool. Fine wool and cashmere can pill, too. The important thing is how you care for the garment and whether the pilling settles over time.
Three habits that can help prevent pilling
The Woolmark Company recommends a few simple changes to help keep pilling under control.
1. Turn your jumper inside out before washing. This helps protect the outer surface from some of the rubbing that happens in the washing machine. Always check the care label first.
2. Skip the fabric softener. Many households add it automatically, but Woolmark advises against using it on wool. The key point is that friction causes pilling; softener is not identified as the root cause. Choose a mild detergent suitable for wool and follow the garment's care instructions.
3. Reduce rubbing where you can. You can't avoid all friction, but be mindful of rough bag straps and repeated rubbing against seat belts or upholstery. If you wear a favourite jumper every day, giving it a rest between wears may also help reduce repeated wear in the same areas.
When machine washing is allowed, use the wool or gentle cycle recommended on the care label. A lower spin speed may help reduce mechanical stress, but follow your machine's instructions and the garment's care guidance rather than relying on one setting for every knit.
When pilling is normal
Some pilling during the first few wears doesn't necessarily mean there's anything wrong with your jumper. According to French laundry chain Speed Queen, cashmere can pill noticeably during its first three to five wears or washes. The chain explains that shorter fibres tend to work loose first, after which the pilling may settle.
Treat that timeframe as a general guide, not a guarantee. The amount of pilling depends on the yarn, the fabric and how much friction the garment experiences. Very fine wool can pill early, and pilling alone isn't proof of poor quality.
Fibre type matters, too. Some synthetic fibres are strong enough that pills remain attached to the fabric, while blends of natural and synthetic fibres can pill because their different fibres interact as the material rubs. Persistent, heavy pilling may be worth paying attention to, but a few pills aren't automatically a reason to give up on a jumper.
How to remove pilling without damaging your jumper
Resist the urge to pull the pills off by hand. Knitwear maker Hoalen advises against this because tugging at them can pull more fibres out of the yarn and make the problem worse.
For cashmere and fine wool, a wool comb is a gentle option when used carefully. Lay the jumper flat and work in short, light strokes in one direction. For sturdier knits, a fabric shaver can remove pills quickly, but use it gently to avoid cutting or thinning the fabric.
The aim isn't to make a wool jumper look brand new after every wear. Some pilling is part of owning a knitted garment. With careful washing, less unnecessary friction and the right removal tool, you can keep it under control and enjoy your favourite jumper for longer.